One of the greatest paradoxes of the modern food system is that, whilst there are tens of thousands of edible plant species on our planet, the vast majority of our diet consists of just a few plants. Throughout the history of agriculture, humanity has used around 6–7,000 plant varieties as food, whereas today fewer than 200 play a significant role in global production. Even more striking is that just nine species account for 66% of the world’s total crop production (FAO). This concentration poses a serious risk, particularly in our climate-changing world, which is why the new pilot programme by the National Centre for Biodiversity and Gene Conservation (NBGK, Hungary) and the Hungarian Research Institute of Organic Agriculture (ÖMKi) is so significant; as part of this, we are jointly examining 50 cereal accessions from the gene bank this year.
The choice on supermarket shelves appears vast: we can choose from breads, biscuits, snacks and cakes in various flavours. In reality, a significant proportion of these contain the same few staple crops, such as wheat, rice or maize, and varieties of these plants bred for intensive cultivation. True diversity, of course, is not measured by flavourings, but by the diversity of plant species and varieties. If our diet includes a variety of plant species and their diverse varieties, this not only makes our nutrition more varied but also strengthens food security: if one crop performs less well due to changing conditions, another can compensate for the shortfall.
The role of diversity in a changing climate
Industrial agriculture is often based on monocultures: a single crop variety is grown across vast areas, sometimes for years on end. This simplifies agrotechnology and increases short-term yields, but at the same time heightens the risks posed by pests, plant diseases and extreme weather events. Climate change is bringing increasingly frequent droughts, heatwaves and extreme rainfall patterns. In this uncertain environment, biodiversity provides a safeguard. Different plant species and varieties have different characteristics: some tolerate drought better, whilst others are more resistant to certain diseases. A diversified crop production reduces the risk of total yield loss, improves soil health and results in a more sustainable agricultural system.
A new opportunity for ancient grains
The role of ancient grains is particularly important in this context: these ancient wheat species – such as einkorn or emmer – can be successfully grown even on less favourable soils and under extensive conditions, without the use of pesticides. Although their yield is lower than that of modern wheat varieties in favourable growing conditions, they are capable of competitive yields and greater yield stability under unfavourable conditions. These features have significant importance in an agricultural environment increasingly affected by climate change.
Moreover, in recent years there has been a surge in interest in the ancient grains, old Hungarian wheat cultivars and landraces stored at the National Centre for Biodiversity and Gene Conservation. An increasing number of cereal farmers are coming forward to grow such gene bank accessions on plots covering several hectares. As a result, the ‘Our Daily Bread’ programme has been included among the Centre’s new pilot schemes, with the aim of investigating the agronomic performance of gene bank accessions under changing climatic conditions, as well as increasing the available seed stock.
The accessions preserved in gene bank collections are not relics of the past, but opportunities for the future. We preserve genetic resources in them that can play a key role in maintaining cultivated biodiversity and adapting to changing environmental conditions. In recent years, there has been growing interest among farmers in the varieties stored in the gene bank. This shows that producers are increasingly seeking opportunities to cultivate cereals with a more diverse genetic background.” – highlighted Dr Borbála Baktay, Head of the National Centre for Biodiversity and Gene Conservation, in connection with the ‘Our Daily Bread’ programme.
As part of the programme, small-plot trials and seed multiplication of 50 cereal accessions will begin in autumn 2026, expanding to a total of 100 accessions in the coming years. The trials will be conducted under organic farming conditions at the Csoroszlya Farm in Szár through the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture, whilst the National Centre for Biodiversity and Gene Conservation will carry out trials on small plots at the institute’s Tápiószele site. As there is a growing demand in Hungary for ancient grain varieties and landraces, the programme also includes emmer and einkorn accessions. In addition to agronomic evaluation, the researchers will assess both the nutritional value of the grains and the baking quality of the flours made from them.
The aim is not just to preserve or evoke the past, but also to explore how diverse genetic resources could contribute to more diverse and sustainable crop production in the future.
What can we do as consumers?
Preserving cultivated biodiversity is not just the responsibility of research institutes and farmers: consumers’ choices also shape what ends up in the soil and, ultimately, on our tables. By consciously choosing products made from heritage grain varieties, we help ensure that these special plant species survive not only in gene banks but also as food.
Products that reach consumers as a result of research and development collaborations offer a good opportunity to support this cause – one such example is the flour made from the local ‘emmer’ variety, a joint project between Első Pesti Malom and the ÖMKi Research Institute of Organic Agriculture.
Since 2015, the ÖMKi has been working with ancient grains, specifically testing einkorn and emmer landraces sourced from gene banks. According to our philosophy, beyond the production of excellent organic wheat, it is also essential that the entire organic supply chain – including milling and packaging – is carried out by domestic businesses, and that locally produced organic products reach Hungarian consumers. On this occasion, emmer from the organic farms of Mihály Földi and András Tóth, part of ÖMKi’s on-farm partner network, was milled into organic flour by Első Pesti Malom and made available to customers.
ÖMKi and Első Pesti Malom
joint organic flour from emmer landrace
A projekt Magyarország Kormánya és az Európai Unió társfinanszírozásával valósul meg.
